From Oct. 30 to Nov. 1, we were UNWE guests for a historic weekend retreat at the Black Sea resort of Nesebar, to celebrate the centennial of Bulgaria in 1908. (More on the joint law school - history department conference below.) The return trip from Nesebar on November 1 was slow but spectacularly scenic. It took us all day, crossing the full width of Bulgaria along the foot of the Balkan Mountains. Fall leaves had not yet fallen completely and the landscape was dotted with picturesque villages and vineyards.



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VALLEY OF THE ROSES -- KING SEUTHES III.
Our first archaeological stop was at this impressive site. Excavated in 2004, one of the most fabulous unplundered tombs to date was that of King Seuthes III (5th century BCE). His intact bronze head proved that the tomb was his. Buried with him was everything he was thought to need in the afterlife -- weapons, armor, vessels, golden treasure, coins and even his favorite horse. This was once part of the capital city of Seuthopolis, near the start of the Grecian period in Bulgaria. Anciently this area produced abundant gold. More recently, the Valley of Roses has provided 60% of the world's rose oil.

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THRACIANS IN KAZANLAK, 600 BCE.
We next saw remnants of the Thracians - Bulgaria's first known settlers. They ruled the area for over 4,000 years (starting in 5,000 Before Common Era) and continuing to 600 BCE. In 1944 while diggging an air-raid shelter, this "beehive tomb" with its domed chamber was discovered. It had still-vivid frescoes and well-preserved treasures from the life of a nobleman near the end of Thracian rule. The tomb is one of nine Bulgarian World Heritage monuments on UNESCO's List and has been sealed up. But a replica tomb was separately re-created near the original -- for visits by tourists like us.




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THE MONASTERY AT SHIPKA
Framed against a high mountain in thick gorgeous woods, above the village of Shipka in the Valley of the Roses, rose the Nativity Memorial Church and monastery with its five splended, onion-shaped gold domes . It was built in 1902 and dedicated to the thousands of Russian and Bulgarian soldiers who died at nearby Shipka Pass in the bloodiest battle of the Russo-Turkish War of liberation from the Turks (1877-78). Many of those heroes were interred in the crypt below the church, which included some excellent historical frescoes and photographs.

___________________________
VALLEY OF THE ROSES -- KING SEUTHES III.
Our first archaeological stop was at this impressive site. Excavated in 2004, one of the most fabulous unplundered tombs to date was that of King Seuthes III (5th century BCE). His intact bronze head proved that the tomb was his. Buried with him was everything he was thought to need in the afterlife -- weapons, armor, vessels, golden treasure, coins and even his favorite horse. This was once part of the capital city of Seuthopolis, near the start of the Grecian period in Bulgaria. Anciently this area produced abundant gold. More recently, the Valley of Roses has provided 60% of the world's rose oil.
___________________________________
THRACIANS IN KAZANLAK, 600 BCE.
We next saw remnants of the Thracians - Bulgaria's first known settlers. They ruled the area for over 4,000 years (starting in 5,000 Before Common Era) and continuing to 600 BCE. In 1944 while diggging an air-raid shelter, this "beehive tomb" with its domed chamber was discovered. It had still-vivid frescoes and well-preserved treasures from the life of a nobleman near the end of Thracian rule. The tomb is one of nine Bulgarian World Heritage monuments on UNESCO's List and has been sealed up. But a replica tomb was separately re-created near the original -- for visits by tourists like us.
_______________________________
THE MONASTERY AT SHIPKA
Framed against a high mountain in thick gorgeous woods, above the village of Shipka in the Valley of the Roses, rose the Nativity Memorial Church and monastery with its five splended, onion-shaped gold domes . It was built in 1902 and dedicated to the thousands of Russian and Bulgarian soldiers who died at nearby Shipka Pass in the bloodiest battle of the Russo-Turkish War of liberation from the Turks (1877-78). Many of those heroes were interred in the crypt below the church, which included some excellent historical frescoes and photographs.
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